No backstory this time. Just a cute little cub playing with dead fish in the flooded estuary during high tide. I will say that we saw a cub wrestling a big dead salmon, clutching it between its jaws and flinging it back and forth rather violently. The cub swung the dead salmon with such disregard for its surroundings that it actually smacked its mother in the side of the face with 5 or 6 pounds of fishy dead weight...
Saturday, September 18, 2010
The Keystone and the Money Tree
Salmon are the money tree. The keystone species. They hold it all together. Much of Alaska's economy, and its ecosystems, depend directly or indirectly upon robust populations of salmon. The commercial fishing industry: obvious. The guided sport fishing industry: obvious. Commercial crabbing: less obvious. Every summer and fall, salmon spawn up anadromous streams, spawn, die, and flush out to the brackish tidal waters where thousands of crabs lay in wait for all of that organic debris to feast upon. Wildlife watching: less obvious. Bears, whales, orca, porpoises, seals, sea lions, eagles, gulls, mink, otters. All of these species heavily feed on salmon every year. Healthy forests: even less obvious. Birds and mammals take salmon carcasses away from the stream and into the forest throughout the summer, eating what they want, and depositing the rest of that nutrient-rich organic debris throughout the forest. That discarded organic debris leaches invaluable nutrients into the forest soils, thus creating healthier botanic communities and larger trees. Recent studies have clearly indicated salmon DNA in trees throughout the Tongass National Forest. Those tree roots are sucking up the nutrients oozing into the forest floor.
If salmon disappear, a lot of Alaska's beauty and wildness will also disappear. Salmon jobs will disappear. Crabbing jobs will disappear. Tourism jobs will disappear. Wildlife will disappear. The biggest trees won't be quite as healthy. And people don't recognize this fact. Salmon hold it all together. It's the money tree that keeps on giving, as long as you pluck a few leaves every year rather than chopping down the whole thing for a few quick bucks. Yet some industries are actively pursuing measures that would significantly impact salmon habitat, and thus the whole chain of events just described. Think it's a case of simply "crying wolf?" Take a look at the Salmon River in Idaho. That river wasn't arbitrarily named. It used to have tremendous runs of salmon only a century ago. How many salmon spawn up the Salmon River these days? Zero. How many commercial fishing and tourism jobs are generated on that river from salmon today? Zero. What would the ecosystem and landscape look like today if the keystone species hadn't been removed? Hard to know... The same can be said for dozens of major rivers throughout Idaho, Washington, Oregon, and California. Salmon numbers aren't nearly what they used to be at best. At worst, the salmon are entirely gone. And thus, the corresponding wildlife, habitat, and potential industries are gone as well.
Whenever you read or hear about a resource issue that could potentially affect salmon, understand the value of the fish. They're what hold this state together.
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Monday, September 6, 2010
Snowcapped to valley floor
Descending off of Narrow Pass to the Thoroughfare Valley floor under blue skies is certainly one definition of a satisfactory afternoon. We thought we'd get a glimpse of the high one, Denali, but we kept getting our view blocked by smaller peaks like this one. And as the afternoon progressed, the clouds rolled in, covering up the high one by the time we got the opportunity for a full frontal...
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Narrow Pass
Sneaking into the snow-laced ridges around 6,500 feet, it was in the back of my mind (nah, let's be realistic; it was at the front of my mind) that the blue skies would disappear, to be replaced by the misty gray winds typical of that elevation. Yet we kept climbing, the hours kept passing, and the blue sky remained. What a cherry!
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Scott Peak
Scott Peak, standing at 8,800 feet and change, marks the beginning of the real peaks of the Alaska Range. The Toklat Glacier rests in one of Scott Peak's pockets, as well as underfoot and covered by debris.
The Green Dome and the Toklat Glacier
Nearing the Toklat Glacier, it became irresistable to not scoot up one of the various mountain folds surrounding us. After we set up camp and polished off our Tasty Bites, I scampered up a nearby ridge to get a bird's eye view. Pretty choice location for a bird's eye, I must confess. Looking down on the valley in the damp, chilly wind, I was reminded of Jared Diamond's description of Viking Greenland in the 15th century. Not because I thought myself a Viking at that particular moment (althouth I'm sure I have some Swedish and Danish Viking in my genetic code), but because the only things growing in this part of the valley were ground level shrubs and alpine grasses and flowers. A small group of dall sheep negotiated the hillside to nibble on the shrubs, and I thought of Vikings bringing their sheep to Iceland and Greenland, only to discover the land was too fragile to support the hungry chomp of the domestic sheep's mouth. It appears Alaska's interior has worked out a biologically symbiotic agreement between Dall sheep and alpine vegetation.
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And there he is: evil incarnate. The big, bad, bloodthirsty antichrist scheming his next sport-killing event. This carnivorous canid was exceptionally shy, and left as quickly as we arrived. And no, I did not see him along the Toklat. I saw him from the Denali bus. But I didn't know where else to put this photo, and I reckon it's a fine photo, so I had to include it somewhere. Since we saw a handful of wolf tracks paralleling the Toklat as we advanced upriver, I figured I'd capitalize on a little poetic license here...
Toward the Toklat's toe, and its headwaters, too
Later the next day, I hung around the toilets at the Toklat bus stop for an hour or so, and eventually met up with my good pal Emily and her good pal Jared. We commenced our collective leg of the trip not far from the toilets, and soon found ourselves in some frightfully beautiful landscapes.
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Accessible ridges
Just a few views from a couple of Denali's most accessible ridges. I took a nap on the first ridge and was indeed awakened by the clashing sounds of wind flapping my jacket against my face and a wolf howling to the north (or south, or east, I couldn't really tell with all that wind). Regardless, Primrose Ridge is a nice spot to catch a few z's in the warm August sun.
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Dall sheep
One of the primary reasons for establishing Mt. McKinley National Park was the preservation of Dall sheep habitat. There are quite a few enclaves of the white sheep throughout the region, including this good looking group.
Ungulates!
Strolling around in the foothills of the Alaska Range, I was moderately confident that I'd get to lay my eyes upon some hefty ungulates. Living in the rainforest, one develops an aesthetic craving for creatures other than bears and blacktail deer. My eyes were peeled for velvety protrusions in the willowed hillsides...
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